January 21, 2018

A Hippie Van in Lebanon

  


I think my son was 4 when I first went on a holiday in a van. It was a Volkswagen Van (a T3, for the insiders) my brother owned, grass green, with flowers on the side. 

You just need one summer trip to get hooked on van life, and hooked I was. I soon bought my own van, a not too hip looking brown thing, with the very fitting letters BFG in the license plate.  
Since then I have had a succession of vans, getting slightly larger and more equipped each time. But my children, maybe out of nostalgia for their youth, always insist I go back to the old model, the Volkswagen van.


Future Lebanese Van Fans (Hippies)

In Europe, the old Volkswagen vans are hard to come by as they have become a collector’s item; you’ve got to pay top dollars to get a good one, and even more if it is equipped as a camper van. Here in Lebanon, it is a bit of a Cuban situation. Volkswagen vans are still very much in use as school buses. You see them navigating traffic at 7:00 AM with some 20 kids in them, all with school bags, and often in school uniform. I understand the uniform bit, but some schools have the odd habit to require the younger students to wear a ‘maryoul’, a type of apron, boys and girl alike.  Volkswagen Vans here are not yet the hip-thing to have, there is still a bit of a stigma attached to it. I am sure this will eventually come, as there are already a few Lebanese hipsters that have discovered the benefits of a camper van.

This is what the dashboard looked like when we bought it. It still looks this way.

Anyway, we were driving through the Beqaa Valley one day, and stopped at a local dikkaneh (small mini-market), when my daughter and I saw this one Volkswagen van somewhere in the back, next to a pile of pallets, a discarded fridge and bits and pieces of scrap metal. Actually, it was hard to figure out it was a van. Or even a Volkswagen. There just wasn’t much left of it, but just like an old Coca Cola bottle, their design is so peculiar, you can recognize these vans from bits and pieces. 
Ooooh,” says the daughter (who aspires to become a hippie. Whatever happened to ‘doctor’, or ‘neuro surgeon’?) “That’s the van I want.” She saw obvious potential in this wreck.

The front seats :) 

Her father, being the typical Lebanese father of a daughter, uttered the famous words “I will get it for you,” and off he went, to investigate and negotiate. One hour later, the van was hers. It was a 1969 T2, an early model. On a good day, they look like this

Now she wouldn’t turn 18 until another 4 years, so you may think this to be a little premature, but from the state of the van, it was quite clear that it was not going to run anytime soon. If ever.

Well. He’s been dragging it (since it did not really run, it had to be transported on a tow-truck for most of the time) around from one dark and suspicious garage to another. It got stripped off everything, which was probably the easiest part as there was nothing in it anymore.

 

One guy did the gear box, another one knew about plate work, a third one had the spare parts for a T2 from 1969, the fourth knew about radiators and engines, the fifth had ‘some’ knowledge about upholstery and the sixth did the paint job.  

Getting a license plate was an equally arduous affair, as we had changed the engine. The original engine, a T2, is air-cooled, which in our summer climate, when she is supposedly going to drive it around, will result in an overcooked engine, and – so we were told – it’s easier to replace it with a Polo engine, easier to drive, easier to maintain, better performance and no problems with overheating. However, now the number of the car and the number of the engine did not match, and so getting it through car registration also took its toll on her father’s mood. So when he finally delivered it, this month, he was totally done with this car. It ended up being more expensive than a brand new KIA.
I do not want to hear anything anymore ever again about this car.”



This Saturday (daughter and some friends and I, the designated driver) took it on its maiden voyage. It took some effort to get it out of the parking garage, since I haven’t driven a stick shift in ages.  The seat belts in the front, once fastened, would not unfasten anymore, and we had to wiggle our way out of them. Pretty soon, actually, at the first corner, we figured out that the upholstery guy had failed to bolt the benches to the floor. I question this rather suspiciously. Seriously now, why would you not secure a car seat? The next thing we found out is that all the in-door handles were basically inoperable. The windows wouldn’t roll down because we did not have those roll-down thingies, doors didn’t close properly, and if they closed, they most definitely did not lock. Essentially, the car has no locks. Driving around school children here obviously does not require a ‘proof-of-safety’ permit. But it did drive.

Lovely new upholstery. Unfortunately, the seats were not bolted to the floor. Seat belts are absent as well.

So the first stop was Bourj Hammoud, where the car part dealers live. I learned something new in Arabic. There are two type of car parts; the basic ones that are required to keep the engine running, which are called ‘parts’, or ‘ottah’, in Arabic. And then there are the not so basic ones, the pimp-your-car ones, so to speak, which are the called ‘aksesuare’, coming from the French ‘accessoires’.  So the roll-up handles for the window are ‘ottah’, but the car radio is an ‘aksesuare’. And shops that sell ottah do no sell aksesuare. We got a truckers knob, because power steering had not yet been invented in 1969 (also an ‘aksesuare’).

And then we lost a door.
Bourj Hammoud, a small neighborhood with tiny tiny streets, dead-end alleyways, no parking space and traffic jams,  is a great way for a quick lesson on changing gears, and how to get the van in reverse. Somehow the gear box shifts position now and then. 
We quickly noticed that the exhaust fumes ended up in the car instead of the outside, but we fixed that problem once we discovered where the engine was and noticed that some hoses had come loose.

Eventually everything that was not loose, rattled loose, and what was loose, came off. In the end, we lost the entire sliding door, and with the help of some parking attendants, placed it in the back seat and drove home without a side door. I am eternally grateful for the rather lenient traffic rules in this country.

Okay, we'll drive without a door. Long live the Lebanese traffic laws
But we are going back to the drawing board. Since her father has pulled his hands off this project, I will continue this labor and will pimp up this van so that by the time my daughter is actually 18, this will be a reliable and safe car. I am driving it up this afternoon to a guy in the mountains who knows about doors. They say. I will be wearing my Artic gear, as one door is missing, and the knobs to get the heater on are gone as well. I will keep you updated on the van adventures in Lebanon.

37 comments:

Anonymous said...

Wow! Your adventures in lebanon never seem to end. Good luck :)

Marijke said...

What a story!! This will keep you busy for at least another few years! :)

Unknown said...

Siets! Wat een plaatje van een auto. Daar zit business in!

Kristi Lonheim said...

Love this line, "took its toll on her father’s mood". May your mood last longer. :)

Elie Touma said...

Wonderful story!!
Hope your van makes your family life full of lovely new experience !!

Fabulous said...

Another really great story, very funny as well!

I always love to read about all your adventures in Lebanon, once you are retired or have too much time on your hands you should definitely consider writing a book about them!

Greetings from Germany.

visnja said...

Great story Sietske!!! As always! Thank you!!!

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Mijn lening wordt toegekend met een vaste rentevoet van 2% voor de duur van de lening.
U kunt de lening terugbetalen voor een periode van 1 tot 24 jaar, afhankelijk van het geleende bedrag.
Je hebt verschillende projecten die momenteel om financieringsredenen worden geblokkeerd, ik kan je helpen.
Dus als u beltegoed nodig heeft, aarzel dan niet om contact met mij op te nemen om meer te weten te komen over mijn voorwaarden.
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لدينا افضل العمالة الماهرة والمدربة على نقل العفش بدون حدوق اي خسائر للعميل كل مايهمنا هو ارضاء العملاء وكسب ثقتهم لا تترددوا في التواصل معنا
من اهم خدماتنا :
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اسعار شركات نقل عفش برابغ
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Dhansingh Gurung said...

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After the top is going downhill which is long way down inter the Annapurna Region. the manalsu circuit trek is finish Dharapani where is last check point for the special permit some one walk till Tall then from there can drive to Besi Shar and to Kathmandu any kind of drive luxury or any kind of bus. This is trekking route you will see specifically view of top of the high mount Manalsu lot of the other specutular mountain view so the people uphold the trekking route to doing but the most of people feel on them anxious due to high elevation. When you doing this manalsu Larke pass trek you should keep positively of course everyone can success trip Everest Trekking Routes help 100% trip success so kindly join us team work with ETR

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Unknown said...

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Dhansingh Gurung said...

14 Days Manaslu Circuit Trek high light trekking route in Manaslu Trekking Packages, and magical beaten track of hidden Valley Manaslu Larke La Pass 5150m. After Annapurna Circuit Trekking Most of Trekkers are thinking about the round Manaslu Trekking. The Manaslu Circuit Trek is restricted area of Special Trekking Path in Nepal and day by day Trekkers Demand increased and also develops lodge accommodation and foods. There is some option if some of trekkers has more holidays and want to see nicer Himalayan tropical villages Monastery and Trans Himalayan people they can select Manslu Tsum Valley Trek. That can make both destination combined Tsum Valley and Manaslu Base Cam with Lark La Pass. The Manaslu Trekking is little more expensive than others Trekking Routes, Because those trekkers who are interest to go Round Manslu Larke la pass or Manaslu Tsum Valley they have to buy four type of Trekking Permits as Manaslu conservation area of Project (MCAP), Manaslu Restricted Permit, Tsum Valley Restricted Permit and Annapurna Conservation Area of Project (ACAP).
Everest Trekking Routes has Professional Mountain Guide Team works with all Expert Local Porters those who are real typical himalayan people. our Expert Trekking Guide has well train and Best Packages Selling Trekking in Nepal. and now Highly Popular Manaslu Trekking which is short and suitable trip in Nepal.
14 Days Manaslu Circuit Trek Start from Kathmandu to Arughat to Sotikhola by Public bus or Jeep and Trek to Machhakhola, Jagat, Filim, Deng, Namrung, Lho, Sama Gaun, Samdo, Larke La Pass, Bhimtang, Gho, Tilje, Dharapani and Drive to Besi sahar to Kathmandu. During this trip can get amazing Himalayan flavor with outstanding white Himalayan scenery which of eight top high peak Manaslu Expedition and Ganesh Himal, Singi Himal, Annapurna II, Annapurna IIII, gangapurna, Lamjung and Many Others Trekking Peaks. Everest Trekking Routes Selling 14 Days Manaslu Circuit Trek full board Packages Kathmandu to Kathmandu. If anyone interest can contact us directly thank you.
Email: info@everesttrekkingroutes.com
www.everesttrekkingroutes.com
www.adventuremountainguide.net

Adventure Everest Team said...

Namaste Dear Valuables Trekkers and Climber Well, Adventure Everest Team is Mainly Organized Peak Climbing and Everest Expedition in Nepal and also those where are most popular Trekking Route as well. The Basically Everest base camp Trek, Everest Chola Pass Trek and Gokyo LakeTrek, Everest Three pass trek, Phaplu to Everest Base Camp and Everest Panorama Trek. These trip are most popular and Best Hiking in Nepal. the Trip start from lukla to Lukla or phaplu to all the way up everest base camp return to lukla fly back to Kathmandu.
Adventure Everest Team is local base and Under Nepal government license holder Trekking Agency in Nepal which is more the 20 Years Experienced in this tourism industry. Base Full Board Packages Selling and Mostly Organized Peak Climbing Expedition in nepal. The Island Peak Climbing, Lobuche Peak Climbing, Ramdung Peak Climbing, Amadablam Expedition in nepal. there are not that lead to Adventure type of Expedition. we do have Mt Everest Expedition, Lhotse Expedition, Pumori Expedition, Nuptse Expedition, Barutse Expedition and Many Others Expedition in Nepal. these all trip are east part of Nepal. Mr Kul Bahadur Tamang run by Local Trekking Company in Nepal. as Professional team and Most of the Climbing guide are already maded Everest Expedition and over 8000 meters. and license holder Mountain Guide. Generarly Mr Kul run Hotel in Dingboche Good luck make happy to all of Clients and combine both Trekking Company in Nepal. The main aim is how to make happy all of valuable clients those who are travelling in Nepal. Secondary trip selling in Annapurna Region which is most popular trip Annapurna Base Camp Trek, mardi himal trek, Annapurna Circuit trek, Manaslu Circuit Trek, manaslu Tsum Valley Trek, Upper Mustang Trek, Kanchenjunga Trek, Upper Dolpo trek and Rara Lake Trek. these trip is South Part of Nepal. Chulu West peak Climbing and Chulu East Peak Climbing is very general and Popular Trekking Peak Climbing in Nepal.

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