Now that we’re
talking about blood; I spent the morning in Nabatiyah for the annual Ashoura commemoration.
Ashoura in Nabatiyah |
Ashoura is
the tenth day (Ashoura means ‘tenth') of the month Muharram,
and it is the day on which Hussein, the son of Ali, and grandson of
Mohammad, the prophet, met his untimely demise, some 1,300 years ago (the year 61 in the Islamic calendar),
in the desert of Kerbala, Iraq.
The story
of the battle in the desert (72 against 10,000, according to the annals) is
re-enacted every year in front of the mosque in Nabatiyah, south-Lebanon, complete with
actors, horses and camels, since that day is quite significant for the shia muslims.
This is the day, basically, when a schism formed between the sunni and the shia
muslims; a schism that these days is primarily a political one.
And with that
reenactment comes the ‘tatbir’,
the self-flagellation in order to remember the blood that Hussein shed for
them.
I have been
going to Ahoura for many years now.
Initially just
as a journalist, to write about the rather folkloric approach of the
inhabitants of southern Lebanon to the commemoration of the death of one of
their martyrs. This habit of
self-chastising is frowned upon by most of the Islamic world, including the
shia themselves. Hezbollah, for instance, won’t allow its followers to
participate, and organizes blood drives instead.
Although it all appears to be rather dark and gloomy, the atmosphere is quite relaxed |
My visits to Ahoura are frowned upon by my immediate surroundings. Most of my family
members believe it is a thing from a prehistoric past that should have died out
long ago. None of them have ever seen it in real life though.
My SIL thinks it
is only something for tourists to go to. “You think all Parisians have seen the
Cancan revue? That’s something only the Americans come to watch,” is her point
of view.
I disagree
with the barbaric part. Christians have done this kind of stuff for ages, and
are still continuing to do so. I see it as a folkloric remainder, a tradition –
however unusual - that is maintained. If we are worried about languages dying out
and animals becoming extinct, we should also watch for traditions that are
about to disappear. And I enjoy this slightly medieval spectacle. The
inhabitants of Nabatiyeh seem to enjoy it as well.
Ashoura knives for sale. They sell for 20,000 LBP a piece but, said the salesman, "for you, I'll make a 'prix d'amie'." |
Although
impressive and a little scary at first (bloody men waving long machetes and
chanting in unison is a little daunting), you’ll find that the atmosphere is not
threatening at all, but rather quite relaxed. You are more than welcome to take
pictures of the crowd. After their rounds, the participants hang around town,
pose for pictures, have lunch and joke with each other.
A cousin was in town this week. Her father is
Lebanese, and so there’s a link to this country. It seems foreigners in general
are quite informed on the topic, as it
features in the media abroad, and so whenever they happened to be in Lebanon
during Ashoura, they all wanted to assist. And so these days, I go with foreign visitors.
8 comments:
Is Ahoura a district in Nabatieh?
Is Ahoura a district in Nabatieh?
Ashoura is a Shitte holiday, Nabatieh is a place in Lebanon where this is celebrated in such a manner.
Thanks Sietske for the updates on Spike, looking forward to his recovery!
Thats some scary stuff...
I also am surprised at how lacking interest the lebanese are in their own environment....it is so full of traditions that are dying or dead elsewhere, full of life and living...yet the lebanese just want to sit on their balcony and talk, talk, talk....politics, politics, always the same story...while we non-lebanese (married in) can't get enough of the place!! thanks for the demystifying of this....my Lebanese family will never bring us to the south....
Did you have to cover your head in a scarf like the other women ?
Habal or jahhel???!!
I am a muslim and when I see these wackos just go at it and beat themselves and soak in blood, I get so scared and sad. First of all if they knew their religion then they wouldnt be hurting themselves like that because it forbidden in islam to hurt ones body, kill people, kill animals etc. How embarrassing.
Post a Comment