March 31, 2010

Wordless Wednesday

I will not be blogged about,” says Oz of the Beirut Hard Rock, as he brings out our super chocolate fudge with the fireworks, and he points his finger at me. We like Oz, because he knows what ‘the usual’ is. Fine Oz, I won’t blog about you.
The Beirut Corniche, 7:00 P.M. on a Wednesday evening.

March 25, 2010

Consummation Day Picnic

When you go out and picnic,

you must build a fire,

so you can see your teenage brother do all kinds of stupid stuff, which is then copied by 3 year-old cousins, who burn themselves, and although we had everything in our picnic basket, including band-aid, we did not have the burn reliever. He survived, and won’t be doing that any time soon again. We call that a hands-on experience. As for the teenager; well, what can we say? Beirut is too much of an attraction to drop that (and your friends) and go out in the sticks and have a picnic with your family. We should be thankful for the fact that he wanted to grace our picnic with his presence. That doesn’t happen very often anymore. Today was a day off. It’s a rather odd holiday, tagged by my colleagues as ‘consummation day’. It is the day that Maria was told by Gabriel (if I am correct) that she was pregnant. I wasn’t quite sure about the reason why this day is apparently so important that we’ve turned it into a national holiday this year by ministerial decree, until someone told me that the muslims and christians now have equal holidays again. But I checked, and the christians are at 8, against the muslims 4, but maybe some of their days are two instead of one. I don’t know. Not that I am against an extra day off, but with a mind-set like that, it is clear that this country is not heading into, into what exactly I don’t know, but whatever it is, we’re not heading there.

The weather was lovely though. And so was the surrounding, somewhere on the banks of the Beirut river, which is just a little stream at that point.

March 21, 2010

Late Dinners

Lebanese like to dine late. Very late. So late in fact that is has become difficult to invite Lebanese and non-Lebanese to my house for a dinner at the same time. You can tell Americans or Dutch with a straight face that they are expected at 6:30 or 7, and they’ll be there.
Tell that to a Lebanese.
7.30! Why so early? No way man. Why not 8:30?” and you’re lucky if they then show up at 9. Dinner won’t be on the table until 10:00, because we’re very busy discussing politics. By that time, your European dinner guests are emaciated. Or wasted, because they’ve been drinking wine since 7. Or annoyed, since they’ve got to go to work the next day. Well, so do Lebanese, I just don’t know how they do it; late dinners and early workdays.
These days we split the dinners, because by the time the Lebanese arrive, the foreigners are already on their way out.

I’m married to an unusual Lebanese. Unusual in the sense that he’s an early diner too. The only one in his family, I might add. So we host foreigners on weekdays, because then we still can function at work the next day, and the Lebanese on Friday or Saturday nights, so we can sleep late the day after.

Why am I telling you all this? Yesterday evening (well, evening for us) at 6, we had a family dinner in what the kids call the ‘Swan restaurant.’ I am sure it has another name, but in our family it is known as the swan restaurant, because in summer there’s swans and geese swimming in the river that flows through the restaurant. And we were the ONLY ones. 7 waiters at our disposal, best service ever. Which was not bad, because I’ve had times when we arrived at a restaurant at the same time as the employees. At least these guys were in like 2 minutes before us.

We had as lovely dinner, as the melting water from the snow in the mountains flowed by. When we left, we ran into a group of foreigners coming for dinner. “Is it open?” they asked. “The place is so empty!”

“No, no, it is open,” assured the head waiter. “It is just a little bit early.”

March 18, 2010

Rain in Beirut

When I got ready to go to work this morning, I saw this fantastic ray of sun light coming through the clouds. Looked like a scene out of one of those old black & white movies from the fifties, when the main character is doing something wicked, and suddenly this beam of light bursts out of the sky with the thundering voice of god; ‘Why haveth thou disobeyed me!” or something else dramatic among those lines. They don’t make movies like that anymore.
And in the afternoon, we experienced “un vrai deluge” as my neighbor described it, just as I had to pick up my daughter from school. Wonderful weather for a Dutchie. Rain and overcast skies.

March 17, 2010

March 13, 2010

A Sense of Humor

The first thing you lose when you move into a foreign culture, is your sense of humor. You do not actually lose it, but in order to be funny, you have to master a foreign language, which is hardly my case.
And so if in the past you used to be a rather witty table companion, these days you have become one of the dullest members at any social gathering.
K. in action. "You know, I really don't like the wine. Can I have another glass?"

In the very beginning this bothered me quite a bit. After all, I had been quite an intelligent woman (I thought) back home, yet could not say a whole lot of smart things here in Beirut. Let alone funny things. But we’ve gotten to a point where you rarely have an ‘Arabic-speaking-only’ crowd in this town, and so this social isolation is not much of a problem. But the humor issue remains, well, an issue.

لديك شعور كبير من الهزل

Humor is considered to be very culturally specific. The Dutch have in general a rather dark ironic and sarcastic sense of humor, quite close to the British and Australian one. The Lebanese sense of humor is not that far off, once you get past the Abu Abed jokes. Still, the language & culture barrier is there, even if it is in English. There’s a whole lot of stuff and innuendo that nobody ‘gets’, only the Dutch.
P. and H. in action; sharing each others (Lebanese) husbands abilities' to go camping.

So last night, when Joke (no pun intended, this is really her name. It is pronounced as Jo-kuh) got a lot of Dutch together in her house up in Broumanna, all we did was laugh. We didn’t need intelligent table conversations, we just needed to laugh.

March 09, 2010

Stuff

From a parking lot in downtown Beirut. They do valet parking, but they're not going to look after the 'stuff' in your car. That's your responsability.

March 08, 2010

Sometimes . . .

. . I wish I were a baker, because Beirut is at its best at dawn when most people are still sleeping, and there is no traffic on the roads.

March 06, 2010

More on Motherhood

We spent the day on the beach; Some Dutch moms and their children. The beach was – as predicted – empty. Summer doesn’t start before June 21. But we, sun-craving Dutchies from the far north, have experience with summers in Holland that are colder that most spring days in Lebanon. Okay, so it was a bit windy. But the sun was out, and so were we. The wind had carried massive amounts of driftwood on the beach, and other odds and ends. Perfect building material for children, and so our kids - bare feet - crawled around and over this gigantic heap of bamboo sticks, shoes, plastic containers, lighters, bits and pieces of textile, springs of an old mattress, broken glass, rope and planks of wood with rusty nails 5-inch long sticking out of them, pulling out stuff to build a tent.

This created a conversation on how the Lebanese perceive us, Dutch, as mothers.
In general we are seen as rather unfriendly beings with our children. Or actually, all children. We are severe, and we discipline too much. And when we discipline, we discipline all children involved, whether they are our own or not. This, in general, does not go down well, we’ve noticed.

One of us, who does all kinds of fun-activities with her children, and who likes to involve the neighborhood children of mothers who cannot be bothered to get out of bed as well, was told by one of the play-dates of her daughter that ‘she did not really love children.’ Why? Because the house rules apply to everyone, even the guests. We do not feed our children whenever they want, but rather at set times, and if they’re hungry at two, when they refused to eat their lunch at one, well, than it is tough going until six. That is perceived as being unfriendly.

Another view is that we are careless. How can you let your child run around barefoot on a garbage belt with rusty nails sticking out of wood? Granted, that is a bit of a scary thing. But worse-case scenario is that you’ve got to run to the ER for a tetanus shot and stitches. But if you keep running after them and protecting them, they’ll never learn to look out for themselves.
It is not so much an issue within the household, as it is with the extended family and the outside. The cultural differences are not that big, but they do exist.

And so we grappled with this topic for a while, on an empty beach, totally ignoring our kids who had a ball between the rusty nails and the broken class. I hope they will remember this day on the beach, when they built this gigantic tent.

We're Going to the Beach, and We're Taking . . . .


As far as the Dutch are concerned, summer has started in Lebanon. It is 9 o'clock and it is already 18C! The sun is shining, and as far as we are concerned, it doesn't get any better than that.

Go here for translation.

March 04, 2010

On Mothers and Arabic dictation (Imla)

Look, the deaf are leading the blind,” says hubbie, when he sees me at work teaching my 7-year old daughter classical Arabic. I admit, it is rather odd, especially since I cannot read half of the things she is supposed to read and write. Why doesn’t he do it, since he is the Arabic speaker, you ask? Ah well, then you must not be living in an Arabic country.
Practicing imla (dictation)
That is not how it works in this part of the world; fathers do not sit with their children helping them with their Arabic homework. Well maybe for 2 minutes. And then they give up in frustration. Or in anger. And then they end their tirade with “Who is this shitty Arabic teacher? What's her name?” Luckily, my daughter’s Arabic teachers are very well aware of the division of labor situation in the Arab world. They kindly provide a phonetic version of all the Arabic words for those non-Arabic speaking mothers, and my daughter provides me with the translation (most of the time). And thus in my household, I have the daily task of reading and writing Arabic with my daughter.

Why bother? Well, it is the second most spoken language in the world (Chinese is first, English is fourth). And I never helped/taught my son. I thought it would develop by itself, just like English does.
But classical Arabic is not like English, for some reason. It is more like Chinese. It is a totally foreign language to these children. If you are a mother of a child in the Arab world, you probably recognize this; you are the one that has to sit with them while wrestling your way through the daily Arabic homework. And boy, do those Arabic teachers like giving homework!

As a result, my son has had to ask for exemption from the Lebanese State Exam, which is primarily held in, yep, classical Arabic. And when you do not have that State Exam, you may not pursue a career in the armed forces (can’t say I regret that), become a civil servant (does anyone want to?) or study law and medicine.
That is a bit of a drawback. I decided that with my daughter, we would not get into that situation. She’d make an excellent lawyer. Or a general, for that matter. She can give orders like no other.

The Arabic language is a tough one (especially when you don’t speak it). So far we’ve only gotten to the imla part, الإِمْلاء, the dictation. I kind of dread the day when we get to grammar, or قواعد اللغة العربية (kawad) though.

But I have, in a matter of 4 months, already learned that the Arabic سـ (s) , the twelfth letter in the Arabic alphabet, is only written in print that way, but when handwritten, it ends up being more of a slanted hill thing. Or that those lines on top and under, that indicates the vowel sound a, o and i, are not written, only read. I know of verb endings of ~oun and ~aan, and I have learned lots of new vocabulary.

And so, in my household, it is the non-Arab speaker who teaches the other non-Arab speaker Arabic dictation, while the two males of the house, both Arab speakers, sit back and watch and laugh at these klutzes struggling their way through imlaa.

It doesn’t bother us one bit. We struggle happily, and you’ll see, my daughter will be the only one in this household that will pass the stringent Arabic state exam at 15, while the two male members in the family were so pathetic in Arabic that they weren’t even eligible to partake in that state exam. Suckers!

March 01, 2010

Service Announcement

If you are Dutch, and in Lebanon, come and eat a real Dutch winter dish, ‘erwtensoep’ , at Anne’s on Thursday, March 4t at 8 o'clock in the Rising Phoenix in Ain Mreiseh. For reservations, mail Annesteenkamp at yahoo dot com. Be quick, because these Dutch meals are quite popular.